Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
