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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.